Monet's Magical Gardens

Last October, we celebrated a milestone birthday with a train ride, a picnic in the countryside and a vintage bottle of Champagne. Although this particular bottle of 1993 Louis Roederer Crystal had traveled the globe with Thomas, pre and post carry-on liquid restrictions, fate would return it to a beautiful grassy knoll near a clear cool stream in Giverny - a mere 140 miles from it's origination in Reims, France.

On this knoll we savored the champagne, a variety of favorite cheeses, fruits, salads, a fresh baguette and some scrumptious desserts. The sun shone directly upon us and the tree leaves danced in the wind. Sprawled out on the bright yellow picnic blanket, we commented how wonderful it was to enjoy a romantic lunch, listen to the peaceful sounds of birds chirping and the stream rushing along the bank. Suddenly, one such bird bestowed a perfectly aimed (lucky) poop bomb directly on Thomas' forehead! I could not control my laugher as he scrambled to the stream to wash it away. Life has a way of keeping us grounded. And that special delivery was the only thing that kept us from floating into the fluffy white clouds that afternoon. 

After the picnic, we walked to Maisons et Jardins Claude Monet. The lauded water-lily pond exceeded my expectations. Its lovingly preserved natural beauty was sheer perfection. The changing colors of the sky, the quickly moving clouds, and the seasonal trees and plants surrounding the glassy pond must mirror a different reflection every day of the year. A visit to his estate reveals Monet's meticulous dedication to his vision and illuminates his quote, “I must have flowers, always, and always.”

The following weekend, we visited Monet's Les Nymphéas at the Musée de l'Orangerie in Paris and experienced the perfection of the ponds all over again. Magically, we encountered friends from California in the museum that day and enjoyed a lively dinner together at one of our favorite Paris restaurants, Robert et Louise.

 ~ Travel Notes ~ Travel to Monet's Gardens via SNCF train from Gare Saint-Lazare in Paris to Vernon. Before your trip, take a moment to view Monet's famous painting, Gare St-Lazare, so that you can marvel in the unchanged look of the station on your travel date. Upon arrival in Vernon, you have four options for reaching Monet's Home and Gardens; walk, bicycle, taxi, or bus. We loved the walk that crossed through town, over the Seine River on a picturesque bridge, and finally crept along a quiet paved walkway directly to the destination.  The walk can span 45-60 minutes depending on whether you're a Californian- or New Yorker-paced walker and how many pictures you stop to take on this scenic route. A few articles about the new head gardener at Maisons et Jardins Claude Monet are here, here, and here.

Musée de l'Orangerie is one of many Parisian museums that offer free entry on the first Sunday of each month. Find the full list of participating museums here.

Bicycling in Paris: Estylo Velib

Many of our adventures begin on a bicycle. The absolute best investment we made upon arriving in Paris, France was a annual subscription to the Velib shared bicycle program.

3AM. Riding home from the Canal Saint-Martin over the train tracks on Rue Riquet.

The Deal: The annual subscription is ONLY 29 Euros! And with a little savvy, that's all you'll ever pay using the system as much as you want for a full year.

Ride Like a Local: Each time you remove a bike from a stand, you have 30 minutes to ride free of charge. Before the 30 minutes ends, check the bike in. Wait one minute. Catch you breath, check your map, apply lipgloss. And voilá! You are ready to check out again for your next 30 minute cycle (literally). Although bike stands are located very close to each other across the city, you may miss a check-in time by a minute or ten in an unfamiliar neighborhood when you first get started. Don't worry, you'll only be charged 1 additional Euro (that's less than a single macaroon or shot of espresso) as long as you park it within 1 hour from your check out.

Discover the Real Paris: When you're on the Metro, you can't experience the very Parisian street life above or below the Metro that attracted you to the city in the first place. You can't just jump off whenever you see an amazing dessert or a beautiful bouquet of flowers, much less when you catch the glimpse of the barely there smile of a potential new friend. On a bike you have the opportunity to see, hear, smell and sometimes even accidentally bump into Parisian daily life as you transverse the city. Crossing through diverse neighborhoods is the best way to find you favorite places to stop and spend a little quality time.

The Savings: We have saved hundreds of dollars by bicycling instead of taking the Metro and it is the best way to get to know all corners of the city. Less Metro tickets equals more wine, cheese and chocolate. You get the picture.

Gain Advantage: Once you become a pro, you will discover that each time you park a bike at specific stations across the city (marked Velib+) will earn you 15 minutes of grace time on your account. After logging a few blocks of grace time on your account, getting charges an overage is near impossible. Overall, the program is very well organized. Depending on your length of stay, obtaining a day pass, week pass or annual pass is a very smart decision.

The Fast Lane: The city of Paris can easily be navigated via bicycle thanks to a strong network of protected and/or well-marked bike lanes. We often find it is quicker to travel by bike than by Metro. Plus, Paris is a small city and relatively flat. Navigating the hills of the 18th, 19th or 20th arrondissements are a fun challenge for an extra boost of exercise. The beautiful views from the hilltops make the journey well worth breaking a little sweat. Hello...more hours on the bike equals more baguettes, cheese and wine. I have a direct correlation worked out, which I can not share. Company secret. You understand. Come calculate your own bicycle to baguette ratio.

Spicy Tomato, Carrot & Ginger Soup

I almost asphyxiated my handsome lover on a cold afternoon this January. He declared a state of emergency as extreme pepper gasses, emitting from the kitchen, blazed through every room in the house. The biting January winds were threat enough to prevent us Californians (aka: weather wimps) from opening every window in the house to chase away seared habanero pepper fumes.

Instead, we hunkered down. We cried, we coughed, we laughed, we managed to set the table. And finally, we tasted the soup. The ginger and habanero did not disappoint. They packed a punch and danced a dramatic tango in balance with the sweetness of the carrots and tomatoes. I fell in love at first bite. The handsome lover...well, let's just say I added more carrots to his bowl and he ate enough to demonstrate his love that night. Immense love. In fact, he announced, the heat of the soup was a relief after the pepper gas appetizer.

Undeterred by Peppergate, I returned to the kitchen to measure out the ingredients, reconsider the pepper preparation, and write a recipe to share. I created this soup with fresh vegetables from my recent market day shopping. The Holy Trinity of this soup is sweet, tangy, spicy. Feel free to utilize alternate and favorite vegetables that contribute those flavors.

This recipe has been reincarnated at least two more times since January. Once, switching up the sweet, I included french pumpkin. Last week, to service the mixed heat-tolerance palates of dinner party guests (French, Russian, Mexican, us) I switched the sweet and spicy; adding sweet potatoes and replacing the habaneros of the original recipe with some smoky (yet more mild) chipotle en adobo. Freestyle with this recipe. Just do yourself one favor; don't sear the fresh habanero pepper (plus seeds) in a hot oiled pan. Because pepper-blasting your handsome lover is not as sexy as it may sound. Trust me.

Ingredients

• 5 medium/large tomatoes
• 2 carrots, chopped in knuckle-size chunks
• 1 red onion
• 2 tablespoons fresh ginger, rough chop
• 4 cloves garlic
• 2 tablespoons olive oil, enough to cover bottom of pot
• 2 teaspoons cumin
• 2 teaspoons paprika
• 1 teaspoon cayenne
• 1 teaspoon brown sugar (or white)
• 1 Thai OR habanero OR jalapeño fresh chile
• Salt to taste

Preparation

1. Seed chiles. Do not chop them. Warm chiles, turning constantly, on a hot dry pan for a few minutes. Do not brown them. Remove from heat. Put aside.
2. Score tomato bottoms with an "x". Blanch carrots and tomatoes in boiling water until scored tomato skin begins to peel. Remove tomatoes. Peel skin. Put aside. Remove Carrots. Put aside. Keep blanching water.
3. Sauté olive oil, red onion, sugar. After onions caramelize a bit, add cumin, paprika, cayenne.
4. Add garlic and carrots. Stir ingredients and spices to incorporate flavors.
5. Chop & add tomatoes to the pot. Add chiles. Add enough water from the blanching pot to cover ingredients by about 1 inch (approximately 1/2-1 cup).
6. Cook 15-20 minutes, check broth flavor. Add salt to taste. Adjust spices to taste.
7. Once vegetables can be easily poked with a fork, turn off heat.
8. Remove the chiles.
9. Add a handful of cilantro and a squeeze of lemon.
10. Blend with immersion or regular blender.

Garnishes

• Fresh avocado
• Creme fraiche or Crema or sour cream
• Toasted sesame or pumpkin or sunflower seeds

~Makes 4-5 servings~

Exploring the Markets of Paris

Coquilles Saint Jacques ~ Scallops. Poissonnerie Rue Duhesme 

The magical and beautiful fresh air markets of Paris are an inspiring experience for foodies of international origin or anyone with an eye for the precise presentation skills of the famous French aesthetic. I especially relish the opportunity to engage in a bit of friendly banter with food producers about what items are most ripe and wonderful that week and then to create a lunch or dinner recipe featuring my fruit, vegetable or seafood score of the day.
While it's true that there are bargains to claim near the closing hour of any market, I don't dare to sleep in on market day lest I miss out on the most sumptuous strawberries, the perfect pear, or a cool, crisp bunch of cilantro. Plus, the hustle and bustle of the morning rush is an inexplicable joy to behold. The Parisian marketplace falls into that category of activities that simply must be experienced in person.

The market is also a prime people-watching destination. But take note not to diddle the day away behind your camera. In Paris, there is always an adorable little old lady who gets up earlier than you and loves a juicy clementine just as much as you. Don't be fooled, she will pounce on that basket of berries you're drooling over while you gingerly test your new DSLR lens. She will not concern herself with your food-porn silliness as she swoops the berries, chats up an old friend, and moves on to the apples all before you've properly set your aperture. Understand this. The market is mesmerizing, but the competition is fierce.

Coquilles Saint Jacques/Scallops. Poissonnerie Rue Duhesme

So get up early on market day, prepare your basket, and most importantly, do not underestimate the savvy of an innocent-looking septuagenarian in heels, pantyhose and a flawless face of makeup. She's been shopping at this market since before your parents were born. She knows everyone. Everyone knows her. And she always gets what she wants. The rest of us can only strive to stay out of the way as we admire the ease of her independent stride, covet the charm of her woven market basket and take copious notes on how to master the Parisian market like a septuagenarian in heels.

Huîtres ~ Oysters. Poissonnerie Rue Duhesme

~ I use this helpful mapping and open hours market resource when I want to visit a new market, shop on a day when "my" markets are closed, or find an option in a less familiar neighborhood.~

Tequila Pickled Red Onions

At home, we lovingly refer to tequila as "ta-kill-ya". And we have sufficient collective stories to validate the title. Although my sweet and powerful tangerine margarita was passed down from a cocktail master and is certifiably epic, I still reserve consumption of ta-kill-ya for special occasions.

On the other hand, this vibrant liquor can accentuate a variety of flavors in a cooked dish or, as in the case of this recipe, a pickled one. I love pairing pickles with almost any Mexican food. My favorites are pickled carrot & jalapeño and these tequila pickled red onions. Since getting my hands on fresh jalapeños in Paris is impossible, I must leave the carrot and jalapeño mix to Señor Herdez or La Morena for now. However, a quick trip to a fresh market that sells African or Indian products and produce will turn turn up the fresh ingredients required to make this delicious recipe any day.

Pickled onions add just the right kick to a number of dishes that see heavy rotation in my kitchen.  I reach to them for a burst of flavor over grilled fish or chicken or as a tangy garnish on top of blended squash and carrot soup. And finally, I admit, they have permanently replaced the traditional raw onions over my bowl of pinto beans. There. I said it. The tequila pickled red onion is addicting and delicious.

Also enjoy them with fried green plantains, refried beans, tacos, sauteed shrimp, ceviche, stewed chicken, etc...

Ingredients

• 1/4 cup apple cider vinegar (alt. red wine vinegar)
• 1/4 cup orange juice
• 2 tablespoons tequila (I prefer El Jimador Reposado)
• 2 tablespoons sugar (alt. Honey or Agave)
• 1 tablespoons fresh ginger, chopped fine
• 1 tablespoons Habanero pepper, chopped fine
• 1 dried chile de árbol (Optional, for those that like it spicy)
• 1 pinch salt
• 1 large red onion, cut in half and sliced very thin

Preparation

1. Chop all fresh ingredients.
2. Place sliced onions in a jar. Set aside.
3. Add everything else to a small pot. Heat until the sugar melts and the fresh ingredients soften just a bit (about 3 minutes).
4. Pour liquid over onions. Cover. Shake to blend. Refrigerate.
5. Enjoy tequila pickled onions well-chilled.

~Two of my favorite places to shop for African and Indian products and produce in Paris are the covered market near the Basilique de Saint-Denis metro stop (African/Caribbean) and the grocer called G and Co, across from the La Chapelle Metro stop (Indian/Caribbean).~

Welcome. Passport, please!

One of the mundane necessities of international travel is the trial of passing through customs and immigration. I often chase the arrows in a burst of anticipation and rush small talk with officials whose care for my plans range from none to 100 as I heed the beckon call of an other world of flavors, scents and noises that I've never tasted, inhaled, or heard. My senses are overwhelmed with anticipation of adventures I'll encounter past the sterile high counters, after questions of local address and expected visit dates, beyond the occasional tussle through bikinis, cameras, dresses, and colorful scarves, and just on the other side of that final suspicious glare.

With my passport stamp and a wave-through, I'm in. Finally, I concern myself with the important issues: Will the dry heat of the desert press on my chest? Will the sea taste saltier? Will the exhaust of a smog-check free society smack me in the face? Will the fresh-pulled taffy scent the air? Do I have enough wet wipes to clean the grime off my hands before I grab a mango or a cactus fruit with my bare hands? How soon until I encounter the delicious danger and distinct delicacy of a street food cart? Wait...Did I bring enough charcoal tablets to soak up any questionable meat source+delicious flavor indiscretions? Yes. I did. And I'm ready to dive right in.

Between trips, I look back at the stamps that somehow made their way into my passport between sleep-deprived jet lag and pure naked ambition to reach the undiscovered world beyond customs and immigration. One scan through my passport carries me directly back to treasured moments: horseback riding along the green and black rivers in Baños, Ecuador; skinny-dipping at the isolated Playa Maguana near Baracoa, Cuba; cool floors and the sweet must scent lingering inside a wine cave in Bordeaux, sunset through the square windows of a gondola high above Barcelona, a single Gyptian hit blasting over and over from a cellphone on a beach in Anguilla, and the fresh squeezed orange juice of the Marakesh marketplace. Ah. That fresh squeezed orange juice is a sweet nectar unparalleled this life.

In the increasingly high-tech world of travel security, those beautiful and precious passport stamps are becoming more and more rare. I recently found myself cursing the empty passageways between airstairs and curbside in Italy. What? No physical stamp? How will I recall the experiences and savor the moments of this trip when I open my passport to plan the next?

Facing the hollow of an unstamped passport inspired me to embrace the new world; to stamp my own virtual passport with adventure, love, inspiration and spice.