Monet's Magical Gardens

Last October, we celebrated a milestone birthday with a train ride, a picnic in the countryside and a vintage bottle of Champagne. Although this particular bottle of 1993 Louis Roederer Crystal had traveled the globe with Thomas, pre and post carry-on liquid restrictions, fate would return it to a beautiful grassy knoll near a clear cool stream in Giverny - a mere 140 miles from it's origination in Reims, France.

On this knoll we savored the champagne, a variety of favorite cheeses, fruits, salads, a fresh baguette and some scrumptious desserts. The sun shone directly upon us and the tree leaves danced in the wind. Sprawled out on the bright yellow picnic blanket, we commented how wonderful it was to enjoy a romantic lunch, listen to the peaceful sounds of birds chirping and the stream rushing along the bank. Suddenly, one such bird bestowed a perfectly aimed (lucky) poop bomb directly on Thomas' forehead! I could not control my laugher as he scrambled to the stream to wash it away. Life has a way of keeping us grounded. And that special delivery was the only thing that kept us from floating into the fluffy white clouds that afternoon. 

After the picnic, we walked to Maisons et Jardins Claude Monet. The lauded water-lily pond exceeded my expectations. Its lovingly preserved natural beauty was sheer perfection. The changing colors of the sky, the quickly moving clouds, and the seasonal trees and plants surrounding the glassy pond must mirror a different reflection every day of the year. A visit to his estate reveals Monet's meticulous dedication to his vision and illuminates his quote, “I must have flowers, always, and always.”

The following weekend, we visited Monet's Les Nymphéas at the Musée de l'Orangerie in Paris and experienced the perfection of the ponds all over again. Magically, we encountered friends from California in the museum that day and enjoyed a lively dinner together at one of our favorite Paris restaurants, Robert et Louise.

 ~ Travel Notes ~ Travel to Monet's Gardens via SNCF train from Gare Saint-Lazare in Paris to Vernon. Before your trip, take a moment to view Monet's famous painting, Gare St-Lazare, so that you can marvel in the unchanged look of the station on your travel date. Upon arrival in Vernon, you have four options for reaching Monet's Home and Gardens; walk, bicycle, taxi, or bus. We loved the walk that crossed through town, over the Seine River on a picturesque bridge, and finally crept along a quiet paved walkway directly to the destination.  The walk can span 45-60 minutes depending on whether you're a Californian- or New Yorker-paced walker and how many pictures you stop to take on this scenic route. A few articles about the new head gardener at Maisons et Jardins Claude Monet are here, here, and here.

Musée de l'Orangerie is one of many Parisian museums that offer free entry on the first Sunday of each month. Find the full list of participating museums here.

Exploring the Markets of Paris

Coquilles Saint Jacques ~ Scallops. Poissonnerie Rue Duhesme 

The magical and beautiful fresh air markets of Paris are an inspiring experience for foodies of international origin or anyone with an eye for the precise presentation skills of the famous French aesthetic. I especially relish the opportunity to engage in a bit of friendly banter with food producers about what items are most ripe and wonderful that week and then to create a lunch or dinner recipe featuring my fruit, vegetable or seafood score of the day.
While it's true that there are bargains to claim near the closing hour of any market, I don't dare to sleep in on market day lest I miss out on the most sumptuous strawberries, the perfect pear, or a cool, crisp bunch of cilantro. Plus, the hustle and bustle of the morning rush is an inexplicable joy to behold. The Parisian marketplace falls into that category of activities that simply must be experienced in person.

The market is also a prime people-watching destination. But take note not to diddle the day away behind your camera. In Paris, there is always an adorable little old lady who gets up earlier than you and loves a juicy clementine just as much as you. Don't be fooled, she will pounce on that basket of berries you're drooling over while you gingerly test your new DSLR lens. She will not concern herself with your food-porn silliness as she swoops the berries, chats up an old friend, and moves on to the apples all before you've properly set your aperture. Understand this. The market is mesmerizing, but the competition is fierce.

Coquilles Saint Jacques/Scallops. Poissonnerie Rue Duhesme

So get up early on market day, prepare your basket, and most importantly, do not underestimate the savvy of an innocent-looking septuagenarian in heels, pantyhose and a flawless face of makeup. She's been shopping at this market since before your parents were born. She knows everyone. Everyone knows her. And she always gets what she wants. The rest of us can only strive to stay out of the way as we admire the ease of her independent stride, covet the charm of her woven market basket and take copious notes on how to master the Parisian market like a septuagenarian in heels.

Huîtres ~ Oysters. Poissonnerie Rue Duhesme

~ I use this helpful mapping and open hours market resource when I want to visit a new market, shop on a day when "my" markets are closed, or find an option in a less familiar neighborhood.~